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Bob Chaplin
Mondavi's Marvels
July 27, 2003
`All Roads Lead To Rome." It's one of my favorite expressions.
Applying this maxim to the world of wine, all roads lead to a
few great wineries. I look to the legendary Domaine de la Romanée
Conti in Burgundy, and the great châteaux of Lafite and
Latour in the commune of Paulliac in Bordeaux as illustrious
focal points of wine in Europe.
Looking to America, the Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley,
Calif., is Rome. It was Robert Mondavi's vision and energy that
transformed Napa into the wine powerhouse it is today
Surrounded by three generations of Mondavis and a virtual Who's
Who of the wine world, the Mondavi patriarch celebrated his 90th
birthday recently. He announced to the guests in a gravelly voice
that after recent checkups he was informed he had the health
of a 60-year-old. Now that's a positive advertisement for drinking
wine. Comedian Tommy Smothers entertained, Dave Brubeck played
a jazzed-up version of "Happy Birthday To You" and
the governer declared June 19 to be Robert Mondavi Day in California.
The wines? Mondavi always aimed high and took risks. His conviction
and foresight put him on the cutting edge. In America he introduced
temperature-controlled stainless steel fermentation and the use
of French oak. With the many famous wine estates and tasting
rooms in Napa, it's hard to believe that he conceived the idea
of the winery visitors' center as a marketing and educational
tool. The concept was ridiculed at the time. In addition to wine,
the Mondavi winery is now famous for its cultural, culinary and
artistic endeavours. In downtown Napa the wine, food and art
center COPIA, inspired by Mondavi, is proof of this legacy.
Mondavi is now a multimillion-dollar publicly traded company.
At last count it makes more than 50 different wines, not just
in California but also in partnerships in Italy, Chile and Argentina.
The most recent venture has been in Australia.
The nerve center for Mondavi is the 550-acre To Kalon vineyard
surrounding the winery. To kalon means "the beautiful" in
Greek. Robert Mondavi's soulmate, Margret Biever Mondavi, calls
this vineyard "Bacchus' navel" and it's one of the
prime vineyards in the Oakville region of Napa Valley. It's also
a laboratory to investigate and innovate in vine spacing and
irrigation techniques.
Within the To Kalon vineyard, the new winery, less than 2 years
old, is their latest venture. It also is a grand experiment.
Robert's son Michael explained that the wines here are made by
using old-time techniques and contemporary know-how. Using stainless
steel for fermentation is a logical development from the old
cement-and-oak containers that were hard to clean and often imparted
undesirable flavors. Robert Mondavi introduced it in the United
States and it's the logical material for cleanliness and controlling
fermenting temperature.
But in an ironic move, Michael's brother, winemaker Tim Mondavi,
has decided to go back to the future, suggesting that carefully
controlled old-fashioned techniques can make better wines. In
a move to create more complexity, and at great expense, stainless
steel fermenting tanks were replaced by large oak vats. I have
tasted samples from both the stainless steel and the new oak
vats. The wines from the stainless tanks are clean and have ample
fruit. The oak-fermented wines also appear to be rounder and
more complex. But the jury is still out, and time will tell whether
this move has been worth the expense.
The Wine File
2001 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley - a Sauvignon
Blanc that's fermented and aged in oak barrels. Much copied now,
it was a landmark wine when first introduced by Mondavi in 1966.
It retains crispness, yet still has a light, buttery softness
- $21
2001 Robert Mondavi Stag's Leap Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley
- intense lemon, lime and grapefruit with a fresh and lingering
acidity. This is a great seafood wine - $23
2001 Robert Mondavi Carneros Chardonnay - floral and flinty
with a vibrant ripe lemon fruit character - $25
2001 Hangtime Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley - I'm a fan of
the wines made at Byron Vineyard and Winery (a Mondavi subsidiary).
This tasty young Pinot has bright cherry fruit flavors with a
tart cherry finish - $14.50
2001 Robert Mondavi Carneros Pinot Noir - Pinot from the cooler
southern Napa region of Carneros. Beautifully balanced with spicy
red berries and a hint of clove and sweet, oaky nutmeg - $40
2001 Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Zinfandel - from the outstanding
2001 vintage. Hotly hedonistic with lush and velvety, black,
plummy flavors - $23
2000 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - A classic
Napa Cab with a ton of cassis fruit, supple tannins and warm
chocolate flavors - $32
2001 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Private Selection - full-throttle
pineapple, ripe pear and ripe apple. Well-balanced, with a touch
of soft oak and a long, sweet finish - $13.50
The First Rosé Of Summer
July 20, 2003
As the warm days of summer engulf us, it's time to reach for
picnic and patio wines. A chilled glass of "pink drink" is
the ticket. Always charming to look at, the best rosés
have a dry, bright acidity and prickly freshness tempered with
lively red-fruit flavors.
Despite its appearance, rosé is not a blend of red and
white wines. The vibrant cranberry color of rosé comes
from the brief contact the juice has with the grape skins when
crushed. The real thing is nothing like the ubiquitous White
Zinfandel, which for me is often too simple and sweet. Typical
rosé from southern France is a blend of many red grapes,
including Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, and
is fermented until most of the sugar is turned into alcohol,
making the wine "dry." In classic rosé, the
mix of grapes makes for complexity. Cinsault gives delicacy and
finesse with a lingering aftertaste. Clairette provides aromas
of flowers and light fruit while Mourvèdre adds vibrant
color, red-fruit aromas and flavors, and often gives a tannic
edge. Grenache is the main component, providing full fruitiness.
Contemporary winemakers from other countries are experimenting
with different grapes such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Tempranillo and even Shiraz.
The Wine File
René Barbier Catalunya Mediterranean Rosé, Spain
- a soft, charming non-vintage blend that's good value - $6
2002 Viña La Rosa, La Palma Rosé, Chile - a blend
of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has clean, crisp raspberry
and strawberry aromas and flavors. A brilliant wine for the price
- $7.50
2001 Marques de Caceres Dry Rosé Wine, Spain - made with
Tempranillo, this deep-pink wine is an exceptionally full-bodied
rosé - $8.50
2002 Chateau Routas, Rouviere Rosé, Coteaux Varois, France
- authentic and fleshy, this is a classic, intensely flavored
rosé from southern France. - $9
2001 Tasca d'Almerita Rosé di Regaleali, Sicily, Italy
- sweet, creamy and smoky, with strawberry and light cherry flavors
- $10
2001 Toad Hollow, Eye of the Toad, California - with its light-hearted,
humorous label, this tasty rosé is made with Pinot Noir
from Sonoma County - $10
2001 Vin Gris de Cigare, Pink Wine, California - from the zany
producers from Bonny Doon Vineyard, this is a grand copy of the
Rhone rosés - $12
2002 Thirsty Lizard White Shiraz, Australia -- a ripe, tight
and tasty rosé from Down Under - $8
2002 Chateau Valcombe Rosé "Signature," Cotes
du Ventoux, France - a meaty rosé disguised as a red wine
- $13.50
2001 Cune Rosado, Rioja Spain - from a favorite producer of
great Rioja wines, this rosé is cherry-nosed, flinty and
earthy. It's perfect with Spanish tapas or seafood pastas with
citrus and tomato components - $12
2001 Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé, France - from rosé's
heartland, this is the real thing. Classic, salmon-pink with
ripe, concentrated fragrant fruit. This is fresh and complex,
with a tongue-tweaking peppery edge - $15
The Rise Of Chile -- Part 2
July 13, 2003
With the legacy of the Pinochet years, Chile has one of the
most stable economies in South America. I found the country a
curious hierarchical mixture of old Europe, with a blend of Catholic
Italy and Spain, and native peoples. There's not much of a middle
class. But there's a large poor, almost third-world, underclass.
Consequently, as well as having an almost perfect climate for
vines, a huge incentive to making wine here is cheap land and
labor. Large wine estates such as Errázuriz and Santa
Rita have large village communities outside their gates. The
villages rely on the vineyards for employment.
American, French and Spanish wine interests have expanded here.
Kendall-Jackson and Robert Mondavi from America and Torres from
Spain are carving out new wine domains, capitalizing on the bounty
of this region. In addition to the plethora of low priced day-to-day
wines I mentioned in my last column, look out for Chile's reserve
and premium quality wines. They now rival any country's and represent
great value if you're looking for wine for special occasions
or to lay down for a few years.
Cabernet Sauvignon and blends that contain a high proportion
of Cabernet continue to be the mainstay of the best wines. According
to Gerald Boyd, wine writer for the San Francisco Chronicle,
a companion on a visit to Chile, "Because of the maritime-influenced
Mediterranean climate of Chile's top Cabernet Sauvignon regions,
like the Aconcagua Valley, the wines are fruit forward, with
warm ripe berry flavors, good natural acidity and ample tannins;
not unlike a cabernet from Sonoma County."
The Wine File
Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Escudo Rojo 2001 - a French-style
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere, A
complex and classy wine for the price - $16.50
Veramonte 2000 Primus - 60 percent Carmenere, 22 percent Merlot,
18 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. With aromas of cumin and orange
peel, this is a lush wine that's a steal for the price - $20
Cousiño-Macul 2002 Finis Terrae - a 50/50 blend of Cabernet
and Merlot, this is Cousiño's flagship wine. Dense color
and a spicy sandalwood nose. A structure of crisp acidity and
lithe tannins hold the intense dark fruit together - $20
Montes Alpha 1999 Merlot - it's hard to choose just one wine
from Montes. Their high-priced Alpha "M" and "Folly" Syrah
have become collectible wines with connoisseurs. This is elegant
and plummy and outstanding for the price - $20
Errázuriz 1999 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon - made
from some of the best Cab lots, this is an excellent example
of a Chilean Cabernet. Almost meaty cherry and black currant;
elegant, with no excessive oak - $21
Santa Rita 1999 Floresta Apalta Cabernet Sauvignon - grapes
from old vines are used exclusively in this powerful wine. But
it has a silky, seductive quality with velvety tannins as well
- $33
Los Vascos 1999 Le Dix - Cab rules at Los Vascos. Made with
100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it's almost opaque with soft
black currant and leather nose. With soft tannins and tons of
ripe smooth fruit, it's ready to drink now - $40
Seña 2000 - a collaboration between Robert Mondavi and
Eduardo Chadwick of Errázuriz, this is a flagship Chilean
wine. First made in 1995, it's a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and
Carmenere. A stunning nose of vanilla bean, tobacco and black
currants, even a whiff of mint, leads to a mélange of
deep flavors including elements of coffee and red currants -
$69
The Rise Of Chile - Part 1 - A Source for Cheap Wines
June 29, 2003
Somewhere along this long sliver of land that hugs the western
Andes from the glacial south to the arid hot deserts to the north
is a temperate region in Chile that is perfect for the cultivation
of the vine. Chile has been called "an upside-down California." There
are similarities, but there are important differences too.
This arid region has little water from rain during its summer
(which is our winter). But it has a network of gushing mountain
streams sourced from the Andes. This precious water is channeled
throughout the area using old conduits and canals. It's a continuous
source that feeds the vines either by flooding or, more recently,
by drip irrigation, which is a more controlled approach. And
because there's virtually no rain during the harvest period,
the cool autumn nights allow the development of complex flavors
in the ripening grapes.
Most of the vines in Chile were brought over from France before
1864, when the root-munching louse phylloxera decimated the vineyards
of Europe. With visionaries like Luis Cousino of Cousino Macul,
Chile acclimatized the descendants of these old Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc vines and made them their own.
Because of phylloxera, most of the world relies on grafted vines.
Chile's are on their own rootstock, and purists say there is
a difference in flavor. In fact, the lack of insects and molds
means that many wineries are completely organic, and most of
the wineries I visited use minimum chemical treatments.
In 1991, the red grape Carmenere was discovered in Chile. For
many years this old French variety was mistaken as Merlot. It's
turning out to be a unique Chilean element that can be bottled
on its own or blended with other varieties to add complexity
and dimension to red wines.
The Wine File
From tastings in both Chile and America, I'm convinced that
outstanding improvements in quality and cheap production costs
make for great day-to-day wines. Chile is a no-brainer when it
comes to reasonable price, and it was hard to choose just a few
favorites for under $15.
Santa Rita 2002 "120 Series" Sauvignon Blanc Reserva
- $9
Casa Lapostelle 2002 Sauvignon Blanc - $10
Veramonte 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley - $12
La Palma Viña La Rosa 2000 Chardonnay, Rapel Valley -
$8
Montes 2002 Chardonnay, Curico Valley - $10
Dallas Conté Chardonnay 2002, Casablanca Valley - $10.50
Cousino Macul 2002 Antiguas Reserva, Chardonnay - $12
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo, Cabernet Sauvignon - $11
Cousino Macul 2000 Antiguas Reserva, Cabernet Sauvignon - $12
Los Vascos 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Colchagua Valley
- $15
Carmen 1999 Carmenère/Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Valle
del Maipo - $15
La Palma Viña La Rosa, 1999 Merlot Reserve - $10
Dallas Conté Merlot, Rapel Valley - $10.50
Viña Errazuriz 2000 Merlot - $12
Caliterra Arboleda 2001 Merlot, Colchagua Valley - $15
15 Nice Choices on the Cheap
June 22, 2003
The wine trade has been busy the past couple of months, with
a slew of new offerings introduced in Connecticut.
There's a lot of competition in the low price ranges, and it's
easier than ever to find remarkably sophisticated wines on the
cheap. California has an excess of excellent grapes, so many
wineries are using top quality juice for their low-end ranges
of wines. They're having to move inventory. Australia has always
been a reliable provider of inexpensive wines, but Spain, Italy,
Chile and Argentina are making significant inroads into this
price range with solid offerings. And it's great to see South
Africa beginning to produce both quality and value.
I've tasted many of the new offerings, and these impressed me
for $12 and less:
Napa Ridge 2001 North Coast Chardonnay, California - from one
of the foremost producers of cheap quality wine, this is soft
and well-balanced, with an underlying austere structure - $8.
Hopkins Vineyard Reserve, Connecticut - a rich, medium sweet
white with excellent fruit and acidic elements - $10.
Trumpeter 2001 Chardonnay, Argentina - rich and creamy with
a hint of citrus and oak, this is remarkable for the price -
$10.
Ironstone Vineyards, Symphony "Obsession," California
- an intricate, semisweet and aromatic wine made with an unusual
cross between Grenache and Muscat - $10.
Fetzer 2001 Echo Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, California - for the
price, one the most complex Sauvignons I've tasted recently -
$10.50.
Martin & Weyrich 2001 Huerhuero Creek Chardonnay, Central
Coast, California - a simple, clean, un-oaked, bright mouthful,
with hints of peach and pineapple - $12.
Pietrafitta Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy - a great alternative
to Pinot Grigio, this is bright and sharp. Vernaccia was artist
Michelangelo's absolute favorite - $12.
Borsao 2001 Campo de Borja, Spain - a remarkable complex blend
of Garnacha and Tempranillo grapes. Rich with dark jammy cherry
fruit - $6.
Fairview 1999 Shiraz, South Africa - an opulent Rhone style
wine - $12.
Rex Goliath Pinot Noir 2001, California - light and softly perfumed
with aromatic strawberry and tart cherry flavors - $9.
Dunnewood 2000 Pinot Noir Mendocino, California - from a cooler
northern region of California, this has subtle essences of my
mother's rhubarb and strawberry jam - $10.
Covey Run 2001 Syrah, Washington state - soft, spicy blueberry
and blackberry notes. Stateside, Washington is definitely the
place to watch - $12.
Two Brothers 2001 Big Tattoo Red, Chile - a full-bodied buxom
red from Chile's burgeoning Colchagua Valley - $9.50.
Tenuta Caparzo 2000 Sangiovese, Italy - Italy continues to be
a great source of bargain wines. This is an elegant Sangiovese
that's a perfect match for pizza - $12.
Grant Burge 2001 Barossa Vines Shiraz, Australia - although
this has a lot of gutsy earthy fruit, it is polished and stylish
for the price - $12.
Bikers and Beer
June 15, 2003
The nearest I came to becoming a biker was in England in the
late '60s when I undertook a renovation of a 1953 250cc Matchless
motorbike. I even went as far as to buy a black leather jacket
and watched "The Wild One" a couple of times so I could
project the necessary anti-authority persona.
But, alas, typical of English bikes made at that time, my bike
seemed to have a permanent oil leak and was more off road than
on. I only went out on it once. I was caught in a downpour of
rain. The experience dampened my enthusiasm for the biking scene
but I still have a photo of the Matchless, now long gone, on
my studio wall. And for a long while after, I enjoyed soaking
up the atmosphere of the Nortons and Triumphs that congregated
in English country pubs where a pint of bitter was the drink
of choice.
What do bikers in Connecticut like to drink when they meet?
Do they insist on special high-test concoctions or crave special
brews? In my neck of the woods there are two places bikers meet
for their weekend jaunts - the Vanilla Bean Café in Pomfret
and The Bach Dor Café in Chaplin.
It can be pretty noisy at the Vanilla Bean Café on summer
Sunday afternoons, when as many as 400 bikes descend. Owner Brian
Jessurun says many aging Hells Angels turn up, often looking
worn and reformed, but there's also the affluent midlife-crisis
group trying to escape the corporate world by buying into the
image of the Big Bad Harley.
The drink of choice? "Basically Budweiser," says Jessurun.
He notes two groups of culinary tastes making up the contemporary
biker scene -those who quaff Bud and nosh on chili, and those
who partake of a double latte or cappuccino while eating cake
or cookies.
The Bach Dor appears to accommodate more-hardcore bikers. On
the rainy Sunday I visited there was a table laid out with an
assortment of Hells Angels T-shirts and Harley regalia. A request
to take a photograph of the table with the accompanying Hells
Angels behind was politely refused.
On summer weekends this bikers' haven bristles with a thousand
black-clad road warriors on their chromed Harleys with their
ladies perched behind them. There are the occasional Ducatis
and Hondas. Regardless of their transport mode they're all drawn
to the Bach Dor's famous outside barbecue.
As for the drink of choice? "Eighty percent Bud," says
proprietor George Douton.
"Sometimes they might deviate to a Coors Light but, generally,
they don't drink a lot. Bikers are not beer aficionados - they
don't follow trends," he says.
To speed up service for his many customers, there are few bottled
beers and no draft beer available. He sells cans and cans of
Bud because they can be handled quicker.
Douton has noticed an increase in female bikers. He says they
tend to drink soda. But the non-driving biker ladies often go
for the clear, lightly carbonated malt beverages such as Zima
and Smirnoff Ice.
Douton drinks Bud but is also partial to Ballentine's Ale and
Sky Vodka. But he confessed to liking a good red wine, saying
he used to be a "French wine snob" until he discovered
Californian Merlot.
Beers That Bikers Ought To Be Drinking
I was a little surprised that these warriors of the road don't
search out more appropriately named beers. Perhaps Hells Angels
around here are not so adventurous. Among the American beers
available in Connecticut, you'd think that Flying Dog Tire Bite
Ale, Grim Reaper, Pete's Wicked Ale, Helle's Lager, Dead Guy
Ale, Brutal Bitter and Hop Devil would be far more appropriate.
And English beers such as Old Engine Oil, Nightmare Porter, Black
Sheep Ale and Monkman's Slaughter Ale could also fit the bill.
Cowboy Cocktails
June 8, 2003
Real cowboys love cocktails. It surely must be true, because
there's a book called "Cowboy Cocktails," by former-cowboy-turned-
executive-chef Grady Spears. It came as news to me that instead
of shots of gut-rotting red eye that I'd seen in my favorite
cowboy films such as "High Noon," "The Magnificent
Seven" and "Stagecoach," that in fact, cowboys
are very partial to such drinks as Sarsaparilla Sno-Cone and
Sonora Sangria.
Grady's 60 recipes for the three Reata restaurants in Fort Worth
and Alpine, Texas, and Beverley Hills, Calif., are inspired by
the cowboy's legendary lusting after hard liquor. In fact, the
restaurant chain is named after the ranch house in the James
Dean film "Giant." His bars have become the more refined
watering holes frequented by contemporary cowpersons. As Grady
says, "Today's urban cowboys and cowgirls need a good cocktail
to put a soft edge on a hard day."
"Cowboy Cocktails" is full of cowboy quips, lore and
other cowpoke info. For instance, have you ever hear the expression "There's
no back door to that Alamo?" It means, "Forget about
it, you're sunk." And did you know that as many as 15 percent
of cowboys in the Wild West were African Americans headed out
to find a new life after the disruption of the Civil War? And
who can forget the endearing nomenclatures Conversation Fluid,
Coffin Varnish, Neck Oil, Tarantula Juice, Panther Piss, Tonsil
Varnish, Bug Juice? All are evocative names for whiskey.
Remember what that anonymous cowboy said: "Never drink
unless you're alone or with somebody."
The Cowperson Cocktail File
A few cocktails from the book "Cowboy Cocktails," available
from Ten Speed Press for $15.
Roy Rogers - Fill a highball glass with ice. Add 3/4 ounces
grenadine and top up with cola, garnish with a cherry and serve
with a straw.
Many of the cocktails in the books use tequila. Did you know
that the agarve plant from which tequila is fermented comes from
the lily family?
Margtini - 11/2 ounces of prime tequila, 1/2 ounce triple sec,
juice from three limes and a splash of soda. Combine these ingredients
in a cocktail shaker and serve in a small margarita glass.
Branding Iron - Combine 11/2 ounces of well-chilled white tequila
and 1 ounce peppermint schnapps.
Trail Dust - In a cocktail shaker combine 1 ounce white tequila,
1 ounce whiskey and a pinch of black pepper. Pour into a martini
glass that has been "rimmed" with lemon juice and Demerara
sugar.
There are many beer and spirit mixtures in the book including:
Silver Bullet - Mix 11/2 ounces white tequila and a bottle of
ice-cold Coors Light beer.
The Heart and Wine
June 1, 2003
At a special fund-raiser for the American Heart Association
at Essex Yacht Club, I cornered heart surgeon Jake Scheinerman,
chairman of the association's wine-related fund-raiser, Vinosa.
Scheinerman is dedicated to raising money for research into prevention
and treatment of heart disease, but as a drinker of wine what
I wanted to know was his take on wine and health. A former scotch
drinker and now an avid fan of French wines, he concurred that
the case for wine every day has already been proven, and heartily
suggested that one glass for women, and two and three for men,
is good heart medicine indeed.
The American Heart Association's Vinosa 2003, taking place June
14 at New Country Motor Cars in Hartford, is a food and wine
blowout. In a unique move engineered by Richard Choate of Robert
Mondavi Winery, a reserve blending seminar will take place and
samples of specially selected 2001 vintage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
will be shipped out from California to be tasted. About 100 bottles
of this unique wine will be auctioned. In addition, the fund-raiser
will feature a tasting of Private Reserve wines (most of the
wine world's heavy hitters will be there) and food from some
of the best Connecticut restaurants.
Also, after an exhaustive testing period, lobbying and "closed
door" experimental tastings (which quite frankly looked
suspiciously like too much fun) event organizers created an official
Vinosa martini. This creation will be offered at a special bar
run by Farmington's newest meeting place, Martini Magic.
Vinosa 2003 Martini Recipe
1 oz. Belvedere Vodka
1/2 oz. Grand Marnier
1/2 oz. Chambord
1/2 oz. red wine (merlot)
1/4 oz cranberry juice
Top up with 1 oz. Sour mix
Garnish with lemon twist and two red grapes.
For further information, visit the website at www.experiencevinosa.com
or contact Mary Knowlen at 203-294-3519 or e-mail mary.knowlen@heart.org.
The Wine File
Many of Robert Mondavi's popular Woodbridge series of wines,
especially the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, are solid wines
for the price. They are good day-to-day wines. But it's their
Private Selection wines that are impressive. They are a tad more
expensive but are worth the extra cost. The Chardonnay, Fumé Blanc
and Merlot are all clean, bright and true to variety. With its
bright nose of syrupy ripe cherries, I particularly like the
2001 Pinot Noir. It's sweet, firm and full-structured, with light
tannins and a good jammy finish. It's a fine Pinot Noir for the
price.
The Private Selection wines are all priced between $11 and $13.
A Touch of the G and T's
May 18, 2003
In August, the world's largest and most famous yachting regatta
takes place in Cowes, Isle of Wight, England. More than 1,000
boats ranging from high-tech racing machines to low-tech day
boats will duke it out in a series of races over eight days.
But the real sight is what the more than 8,000 sailors and the
spectators do between races. Since 1826, this event has been
the height of the British summer social calendar. It's an excuse
to party big time, with the renowned yacht club balls, private
yacht parties and the local bars for those not so high up in
the social ladder.
At these occasions the poison of choice for many is the classic
gin and tonic. It's been around a long time. It was a pillar
of fading English colonialism and it's definitely a feature of
The Establishment. And it's a great summer drink.
Gin
Gin, invented in Holland in the 17th century as a medicine,
was known as "Dutch Courage" by English soldiers fighting
in watery climates during the Thirty Years War (1618 to 1648).
Later, it became known as "Mother's Milk" in England.
The famous "Gin Palaces" of 19th-century England -
large, luxuriously furnished bars designed to lure the lower
classes away from their slum homes - became the scourge and solace
of the poor and underprivileged, turning gin into "Mother's
Ruin."
Similar to vodka, gin is a simple alcohol to which botanicals
are added. Tart and aromatic juniper is the main addition, but
the better and more complex versions use secret recipes, adding
coriander, angelica, orange peel, lemon peel, cardamom, cinnamon,
grains of paradise, cubeb (small, spicy berries) and/or nutmeg
into the mix.
Tonic
Simply carbonated water flavored with fruit extracts, sugar
and quinine, some historians have suggested that India Tonic
Water, as it was known, was the reason Europeans established
themselves so ruthlessly and successfully in the Tropics. The
bark of the cinchona tree of South America is the source of quinine,
a bitter tasting anti-malarial drug. The Spanish were the first
Europeans to hear about the medicinal properties of the bark
of the "fever tree," and quinine later became known
as "Jesuits' Powder."
For 300 years, quinine was the only effective treatment for
malaria. Later it was supplanted by the safer synthetic drug
chloroquine. But due to resistant strains in some parts of the
world, natural quinine is again being used to fight malaria.
Gin and Tonic
The G & T is a hangover from the British Empire. British
colonials in India reputedly mixed the bitter, life-saving quinine
with gin and lime or lemon. After World War I it developed into
the refreshing and cosmopolitan cocktail that became fashionable
on Cunard liners and among the yachting fraternity. It's still
the classic drink for the dog days of summer when the sun is
over the yardarm and it's time to "Splice the Mainbrace."
Classic G & T's use 2 ounces of gin and 5 ounces of tonic
poured over ice in a highball glass. Just add a wedge of lime.
Add a splash of Campari to create a great variation called the
Pink Gin Tonic.
Medicine
If you're looking at medicinal qualities, quinine is also used
to flavor vermouth. But remember, with the tonic you find today,
you'll need about 45 6-ounce shots of tonic to make it effective
against malaria. And that's every day. Add the required amount
of gin and malaria would be the least of your problems!
Morgan's Natural Touch
May 11, 2003
While the lower areas of Monterey, Calif., just south of San
Francisco are turning out to be prime sources of Sauvignon Blanc
and Rhone varietals, the upper reaches are prime Pinot and Chardonnay
regions.
Dan and Donna Lee founded Morgan Winery in 1982 and the Lees
have continued to be a source of well-crafted wines. In an interesting
move, they have decided to label their acclaimed Santa Lucia
Highland Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays with single-vineyard designation.
This is to present the character of the different vineyards rather
than making a single "reserve" wine.
The Double L Vineyard in the northernmost part of the Santa
Lucia Highlands is Morgan's Grand Cru status vineyard. The Lees
named the ranch and vineyard the Double L, short for Double Luck,
for their identical twin daughters, Annie and Jackie. It has
the distinction of being the only certified organic vineyard
in the region; they believe organically grown fruit best expresses
the character of the land. To emphasize the local flavor the
reds are fermented using native natural yeasts. And by not filtering,
they produce delicate, seductive wines while retaining a firm
fruit core. Only 550 cases each of the Pinots Noirs are made.
2001 Morgan Côte du Crow's - a delightful copy of a Southern
Rhone wine. Using Syrah and Grenache, this is bold full-flavored,
spicy and richly textured - $15
2000 Morgan Monterey Chardonnay - pale, straw gold with tropical
fruit fused with clean, bright-green apple aromas. Rich, buttery
and toasty, it's perfectly balanced with an underlying crisp
acidity. - $20
2000 Morgan Double L Vineyard Chardonnay - bright apple, melon
and toasty pear aromas with soft mineral notes. Crisp and clean
flavors of lemon, peaches and pineapples interwoven with dry
earthy elements. The cool climate influence shines through with
bright, food-friendly acidity. This has a long finish of roasted
nuts, honey and peaches. - $35
2000 Morgan Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir - whiffs of cinnamon,
vanilla and light dusty cherry. Good tannin and acidic structure
balanced with a mélange of nutmeg, cherry and ripe strawberry.
- $36
2000 Morgan Double L Vineyard Pinot Noir - Aromas are central
to the appreciation of wine. It's especially true for Pinot Noir.
This wine begins with a central core of cherry, plum and Indian
spice aromas (all my favorite Pinots have a similar profile),
and as this wine evolves in the glass there's a restrained and
delicate old-rose perfume with a touch of aromatic wood that
evokes a walk in a late spring rose garden. This is right up
there with my favorite Pinots. - $40
Winemaker, 80 vintage
May 4, 2003
Visiting Napa Valley, there were a couple of places I wanted
to pay homage to. In addition to the Robert Mondavi Winery complex
with its beautiful adobe vistas, I wanted to visit the winery
and tasting room of Grgich Hills. While I tasted the wines there,
I saw through a glass office door winemaker Mike Grgich with
his trademark beret. He is one of the giants of American winemaking.
Celebrating his 80th birthday last month, Miljenko "Mike" Grgich
has played a seminal role in developing the quality of California's
wines for the past 40 years. One of 11 children, he was born
on Croatia's Dalmatian coast in 1923, where he helped at his
family's winery and vineyard. After moving to California in 1958
he expanded his winemaking knowledge and expertise by working
at many of the greatest vineyards, including Chateau Souverain,
Mondavi and Beaulieu.
But it was his winemaking at Chateau Montelena that made him
legendary. The celebrated "Paris tasting" of 1976,
organized by British wine merchant Stephen Spurrier, featured
France's most distinguished wine-tasters and judges, and matched
some of the best red and white wines from France against the
best from Napa Valley. The rest is history. Stag's Leap Wine
Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon won the red wine competition, and
Grgich's Chateau Montelena Chardonnay took the prize for white
wine, beating out the top wines from Burgundy. At one of the
most celebrated moments in international winemaking, this shocking
turnabout firmly established Napa Valley as one of the world's
top wine regions. As you can well imagine, it mortified the French
wine establishment. Grgich's success led to a partnership with
Austin Hills of Hills Brothers Coffee to form Grgich Hills Cellar.
The Wine File
2001 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley - Barrel fermented,
this elegant Sauvignon Blanc retains a crisp lime grassiness
balanced with lush elements of tropical fruits and light honey
- $18
2001 Grgich Hills Zinfandel, Napa Valley - So the circle turns!
It appears Zinfandel has its roots in Grgich's homeland of Croatia.
Grgich's Zinfandels were my first foray into his winemaking skills.
The example I bought from his tasting room was one of the finest
I've tasted. This Zin is wonderfully crafted with lashings of
blackberry, plummy fruit balanced with vibrant acidity and soft
tannins - $25
1999 Grgich Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - This year was
perfect for Cabernet. Made from perfectly mature grapes, this
has deep blackberry and chocolate flavors with soft tannins.
There are not many other wines I'd buy for this price. - $50
Splice the Mainbrace -
It's Time for Rum!
February 23, 2003
Rum is making a spectacular comeback. With its warm,
molasses-infused aromas it was once used mainly as a mixer for
exotic parasoled cocktails.
And what great cocktails rum makes. At the recently
opened Azul restaurant in West Hartford, tempting mojitos and
other cocktails using Brazilian rum are offered as precursors
to the Bocadillos, Ensaladas y Platos and other Nuevo Latino cuisine.
I've also recently tasted some sipping rums that belie their coarse
sugarcane background. Matured in old casks and delicately blended,
they are equal to some of the best aged single-malt whiskeys,
brandies and bourbons.
Rum, of course, is the stuff of English naval legend.
I believe the British Empire lasted as long as it did because
it was heavily supported by the British Navy, which was in turn
bolstered by the customary tot o' rum. In the 18th century, every
man and boy was served a quarter-pint, twice a day, mixed with
water and lemon juice to make grog, surely one of the first rum
cocktails. Winston Churchill described pre-1850 British Navy traditions
as "rum, sodomy and the lash."
Though the ration was gradually reduced, the rum
part didn't change until 1970. The modern British Navy decided
that operating modern electronic warfare systems and flying warplanes
from aircraft carriers required a clear head. The American Navy
had stopped such enforced imbibing of spirits in 1914. The French
Navy has, of course, never banned it, and to this day drinks brandy
and choice wines on the poop deck.
Rum Cocktails
The melding of limes and rum is an integral part
of Latino cocktails, perhaps having its roots in the British Navy's
realization that scurvy was caused by a lack of Vitamin C. Lime
juice was regularly mixed with grog to make the sailors take their
medicine. For the cocktails at Azul, the barman uses an aromatic
Brazilian rum called Matusalem.
Mojito Authentico - Just watching and smelling the
mint leaves and limes pummeled mercilessly in a glass is enough
to get the gastric juices flowing. Rum is added to this, together
with the juice of fresh-pressed sugarcane.
Habana Colada - A blend of Matusalem Gold Rum, pineapple
juice, mango purée and coconut milk. Myer's Rum is floated
on top to give this yummy drink a sultry quality.
Sipping Rums
An old tar described drinking rum as "akin
to drinking a fireball whose glowing warmth could soon be felt
spreading hot and tingly from my stomach to the outer extremities
of nearly frozen fingers, and a short time later I felt like living
again." The sipping rums of today are far more refined!
Westerhall Plantation - From Barbados. One of the
lightest with delicate, golden color. Soft and sweet with bright
orange and lemon sweetness. - $24
Sea Wynde - The company that makes this acquired
some of the last stocks of British naval rum and developed this
from the secret blending recipe the navy used. It's smoother and
less pungent than the original naval rum, with a tarred-rope saline
nose and a smooth, refined and tangy finish. - $38
Coyopa - Made with sugarcane grown on Barbados,
this is a decadent, smooth, full-bodied rum. It's aged 10 years
in oak casks. With a smoldering, spicy-tar, buttery citrus and
orange molasses aroma, and rich silky taste, it's akin to a great
cognac. - $50
Angostura 1824, Aged 12 Years - From Trinidad and
Tobago, this is the favorite of Azul's joint owners Mark Signor
and Michael Moreau. Warm, leathery, furry, caramel, toasty, peaty
vanilla, with a dash of chocolate mocha. - $70
The Vintages
Were Sterling at Bamboleo
February 16, 2003
You'll not easily forget this restaurant's name
if you go into the restrooms. I can't speak for the ladies', but
in the men's the loud strains of "Bamboleo" by the Gipsy
Kings emphasizes the point that this snazzy restaurant offers
scintillating Latin Fusion cuisine. And as I write this article
late into the night, I can't get the darn tune out of my head!
Open since June 2002, Bamboleo is one of the hot
spots in Glastonbury and owner Tom Altmann, also of Hot Tomato's
in downtown Hartford, hosted a superlative wine and food-pairing
luncheon using wines from the Sterling Vintner's Collection.
I've been a fan of Sterling wines ever since Rob
Hunter took over the winemaking at this well-endowed winery in
California's Napa Valley. I love their Winery Lake Pinot Noir
and Three Palms Merlot. This range of wines can be expensive,
but the Sterling Vintner's Collection, made to the same exacting
standards by winemaker Chris Millard, are all priced around $12.
The reason they are so reasonably priced is that the grapes come
from their Monterey vineyards and not Napa. I was impressed not
only by the quality of these wines, but their compatibility with
food.
The Wine File
2001 Sterling Vintner's
Collection Chardonnay - This is a crisp clean Chardonnay
that's not too fat and oaky. The lean but rounded lemon and melon
flavors were a perfect match for pan-seared scallops with malanga
pancake, black caviar and cumin vodka sauce.
2000 Sterling Vintner's
Collection Merlot - Pork Tacos with a cilantro cream
sauce matched this punchy plummy merlot to a T. The aroma brought
back memories of fallen purple plums from the old Victorian tree
in my childhood garden. Perhaps my favorite of the day, this finished
with a warm tannic edge, unlike some insipid Merlots I've tasted
recently.
2000 Sterling Vintner's
Collection Cabernet Sauvignon - This is not a heavyweight
overblown Cab. It's restrained, light and spicy with plenty of
blackberry and cherry fruit. There's also a slight herbal pepperyness
that paired well with the beef short ribs, corn tamales and salsa.
2000 Sterling Vintner's
Collection Shiraz - Not to be released until the
spring, this is a full-blooded American-style red, full of mint
and spice. It's definitely not your earthy, perfumed Rhône-style
Syrah. (Though Shiraz and Syrah are the same grape, and Shiraz
is the name used for the grape in Australia, it's a sign of the
power and success of the wine industry Down Under that even American-made
wines are calling themselves Shiraz!)
Did You Know?
The standard size of early glass wine bottles corresponded
to one natural "lungful" of air. A 750-ml bottle, a
standard-sized wine bottle, would be the nearest equivalent today.
Trouble In Paradise
February 9, 2003
One of the most beautiful and important winegrowing
areas in France is in dire straits. After a couple of indifferent
vintages, many winemakers in Burgundy are having trouble selling
their wines. Some long-standing winemaking families are facing
bankruptcy. It's fine if you own Grand Cru Montrachet or Chambertin
because there'll always be demand for these acclaimed, small-production
wines. But producers from lesser-known vineyards and areas like
Macon and Beaujolais are suffering.
Ironically, it's the very competition from Australian
and American winemakers, who years ago came on bended knee to
study the Burgundian masters, that is contributing to their plight.
Yet many of the problems have been of their own making. Burgundy
has been notoriously inconsistent, and warnings to improve quality,
lower yields and to bottle and market their own wines have fallen
on deaf ears. Last year there were near riots by winegrowers in
Burgundy.
And is nothing sacred! A suggestion that 10 years
ago would have been heralded as blasphemous has been mooted to
help relieve the situation. It's been suggested that some Pinots
and Chardonnay from Burgundy should be blended with other wines
and grapes like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from other parts
of France to produce a generic, well-priced product. It's so they
can compete with similar styled wines gushing out of California
and southeast Australia.
The Wine File
and Pinot Noir
Spiritus on Main Street, Hartford, and Farmington
Avenue, West Hartford, is a favorite source of wines and wine
information for me. They have well-researched and often unusual
offerings, knowledgeable staff and good prices. Just take a look
at their informative monthly newsletter. Tim Pendleton works at
Spiritus in West Hartford and he introduced me to the 1999 Dirler
Alsace Pinot Noir ($17). Pinot Noir from northern climes is dainty
in color and has a light, easy-going, cherry strawberry taste.
But the best have intense fruit aromas and subtle acidity.
The acidity of tomatoes usually suggests Italian
Chianti, but this wine was ideal for a dish my wife recently served
- briny mussels in a tomato, oregano and heady garlic broth with
a jot of hot spicy pepper.
For the epitome of Burgundian-style Pinot Noir from
California, you have to experience Byron vineyards. Winemaker
Ken Brown's recently released 1999 Byron Nielson Vineyard Pinot
Noir Sierra confirms the ascendancy of the Santa Maria Valley
as an area for prime Pinot. This wine is pure, subtle, rich and
concentrated. It costs $45.
If you want a high-end Aussie Pinot experience,
try the 2000 Yering Station Reserve, Yarra Vale Pinot Noir at
$38. It's velvet smoke.
State of the
Wine Address
February 2, 2003
I can report that the state of wine is excellent.
It's a good time to be drinking good wine. There's certainly a
lot of it about.
The world of wine is in flux with corporate mergers
and consolidations and many new labels. It can be amusing. I've
tasted well over 1,500 wines during the past year - tasted, mind
you, not drunk! And although that's a small drop in the ocean
of wine available, it's given me a few ideas about where things
are heading.
Washington State, Spain, Chile and Argentina will
continue to solidify their deserved market share. Portugal, South
Africa and Eastern Europe are the regions to watch, and I predict
New Zealand reds will be hot this year. Even with the bad weather
of 2002, there is over-production in California. I'd like to hope
it will lead to cheaper wines, but feel that it probably won't.
There is fierce competition and I think there will be casualties
among the wineries. The French, having painfully come to terms
with the fact that it is no longer The Center of the Wine Universe,
will continue to make great strides in marketing their wines here.
New England will continue to improve the quality
and quantity of their wines. I predict that as in Napa Valley
25 years ago, the best state restaurants will at last realize
we have excellent wine assets right on the doorstep, and design
and promote cuisines to accompany them.
Vintage-wise, it should be made the law of the land
to taste wines from the acclaimed 2000 Bordeaux vintage. They
are beginning to trickle into the stores. Similarly, look for
the outstanding German 2001 Rieslings available. Riesling, Gruner
Veltliner, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Tempranillo will make
further inroads into the Merlot/Chardonnay-dominated territory.
And lastly, look for more producers of high-end
wines to use better synthetic corks and even screw caps.
The Wine File - The Best of the Rest
Here's a handful of reasonably priced wines that
impressed me in 2002 that I did not review. Please feel free to
e-mail me if you would like complete tasting notes on these.
White
2001 Cousino-Macul Chardonnay, Chile, $9.50
2001 George Duboeuf Viognier Vin de Pays de L'Ardeche,
France, $10
2001 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County,
California, $16
2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling
Kabinett, Germany, $17
2001 La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi Pinot Grigio,
California, $18
1999 Sebastiani Dutton Ranch Chardonnay,
California, $27
Red
1999 Viña La Rosa, La Palma Merlot Reserve,
Chile, $16
2000 Brunelli Pa Rionda Valpolicella Classico Ripasso,
Italy, $16
2000 Capezzano Barco Reale, Italy, $16.50
2000 Trentadue Old Patch Red, California, $16.50
2000 Niebaum-Coppola Diamond Series Black Label
Claret, Napa, California, $19
2000 Morgan Syrah, Monterey, California, $24
1999 Sebastiani Zinfandel "Domenici,"
California, $29
Hangover Helper
January 26, 2003
Do you have a problem with headaches even after
drinking small amounts of wine? According to a recent survey,
77 percent of women who enjoyed wine experienced headaches within
two hours, or the next day.
Even drinking plenty of water, or taking a painkiller
such as aspirin doesn't seem to work. Sensitivities to sulphites,
histamines and tannins have been blamed for these headaches.
A biotech consumer products company has developed
a pill called Chaser. Its formula of activated calcium carbonate
and vegetable is said to soak up, like a sponge, the components
of wine that cause nausea, headaches and body ache.
The company has introduced a supercharged version,
containing Vitamin B2, called Chaser for Wine Headaches.
The procedure is to take two pills with the first
drink and another two after the fourth or fifth. Very few of my
friends seem to suffer from wine headaches, but one of my favorite
postal workers, Lori, mentioned that she likes the odd glass of
wine with her meals and suffers from headache if she imbibes.
She agreed to become a guinea pig. One Friday, I armed her with
the pills and a bottle of red wine for her and her husband to
try over the weekend.
The bright look on her face Monday indicated success.
She said that initially she didn't like the idea of swallowing
a pill with the first glass of wine, but was pleasantly surprised
by the results. She had no wine-induced headaches. Several other
of my guinea pigs have supported these claims, too.
Remember, these pills do not prevent you from being
drunk!
Call 1-888-960-9495 or go to www.winechaser.com
to try a free four-pack sampler of Chaser for Wine Headaches.
(There's a $1.95 handling charge.)
Visual Vineyards
I have perhaps 40 wine-related books in my library.
Most are literary tomes stashed with tons of information. Many
have great photographs supplementing that information, but occasionally
it's nice to escape into pure aesthetics.
Charles O'Rear is a photographer specializing in
the world of the vineyards. He's been on assignment for National
Geographic and is best known for his wine-world photos. From closeups
of grapes and vinous growths, to the loneliness of the long-distance
vine-pruner, from social events to moody winemaking moments, his
books encapsulate the gamut of winemaking. His is a unique and
sensuous style. Representing 30 years of exploration, his visual
essays "Chardonnay" and "Cabernet" are remarkable.
These books cost $20 and can be found at Borders and other bookstores.
1,800 Tastings
The Boston Wine Expo is upon us again. If you fancy
tasting more than 1,800 wines over two days next Saturday and
Sunday at the World Trade Center Boston & Seaport Hotel, this,
the largest consumer wine event in the country, is your chance.
Wineries from around the world and the U.S. will host demonstrations,
seminars and special events. For more information, go to www.wine-expos.com
or phone 1-877-946-3976.
That '70s Vintage
January 19, 2003
Outside Carmine's Tuscan Grill in New Haven the
wind and rain of an early winter storm were blowing hard. But
inside we were basking in the warming glow of northern Italy.
The weather didn't faze the trio of suited Italians: Angelo, Giuseppe
and Sandri, of wine producer Bersano.
Recently flown over from their homes in Piemonte
(the region often Anglicized as Piedmont) they described their
wines in lyrical and gestural Italian. I'm sure much was lost
in the translation, but the wines spoke for themselves.
Since the end of the 19th century Bersano has been
one of the most revered old wine producers in northern Italy.
Piedmont produces perhaps the greatest expression of the Nebbiolo
grape, with the famous - some would say notorious - powerful long-lived
wines from Barolo and Barbaresco.
With risotti Porcini and shaved fresh white truffles,
specially brought over from Italy by winemaker Sandri Piersandro,
we tasted three grand old early-1970s Barbarescos and Barolos
from the Bersano cellars. Sandri had made these wines. He explained
that to him Barbaresco is the wine of queens, Barolo the king
of wines. Still young after 30 years, they were deeply colored,
with a vibrant orange glow around the edges.
The Barbarescos were soft and subtle with a light,
dried-orange-peel, rose-petal and violet nose. They had subtle
hints of the mushrooms and truffles used in the evening's dish
but with a haunting, sweet spiciness. The Barolo was a bigger
version of the same. It tasted young, with light, tarry, leathery
and animal qualities.
Thirty years ago Bersano was bought by Seagrams
and placed under the cynically termed "OEgood" umbrella.
In an attempt to make profits for shareholders, Bersano was gutted,
with many of the best vineyards and holdings sold off. "OEraped"
was the term I heard several times that evening. Quality plummeted.
But in 1985 the Massimelli-Soave families purchased
Bersano, and since then there has been a turnaround. They bought
back vineyards, invested heavily in the property and are now in
the forefront of Piedmont's resurgence of the past 15 years. Better
vineyard management, including closer vine spacing, and lower
yields combined with more sensitive winemaking techniques have
allowed Nebbiolo, and the other great grape, Barbera, to display
their unique profiles. Gone are the huge tannic and acidic wines
of the past that needed eons of bottle age to make them approachable.
The wines now have softer, more complex tannins and acids. They
are full-flavored, yet still retain individuality and the ability
to age well.
Sandri gesticulated. "We are willing to go
ahead. I am dedicated to the soil and tradition of my vineyards,
but not at the expense of new science."
The Wine File
2001 Gavi-Gavi. The Cortese grape usually makes
simple uncomplicated wine, but this bright, fresh wine with a
fresh-squeezed lime nose is surprisingly full-bodied. - $10
2000 Barbera d'Asti De Castelunga. Straightforward
fresh-cherry strawberry nose. Bright fruit with a light spice
edge. - $10
1996 Barbera D'Asti Superiore Generala. Sweet tobacco
nose. Crisp, clean but full-bodied, with underlying velvety power.
A good example of combining tradition and innovation. - $32
1996 Barolo Nirvasco. Raspberries and a slight smokiness
on the nose. Beautifully balanced with earthy mushroom flavors.
- $33
1997 Barbera Monferato Pomona made with Barbera
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep-colored, rich, sweet-candy nose.
Plenty of oak vanillin aromas. Good tannin and acid structure.
Smooth, blackberry-spice, long, jammy finish. - $40
Whaddya Know About Wine?
January 12, 2003
Our little quiz today is designed to test the most
astute of libationers. (The answers are at the bottom of the page.
No peeking!)
1. What wine was recently described by a Wine Spectator
reader as the "Kool-Aid of the wine world"?
2. Which wine grape is grown in the greatest quantity
on Connecticut's 113 acres of vineyards?
3. Do beer drinkers have higher IQs than wine drinkers?
4. Rotary Eclipse, Slam, Don, Yankee, Original Safety,
Champion and King's Screw are all names of what?
A. Punk Rock bands from the 1980s
B. Cocktails developed at the recent Indianapolis 500
C. Corkscrews
5. How many bubbles are there in a bottle of Champagne
or sparkling wine?
A. 29,000
B. 29 million
C. 29 billion
6. True or False: After Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson's
death at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, his body was preserved
on the HMS Victory in a barrel of neat rum so he could be buried
at Westminster Abbey.
7. In which state of the Union is it prohibited
to buy wine and liquor in bars?
A. Alabama
B. Mississipi
C. Utah
8. About how many glasses of wine does an acre of
vineyard produce?
A. 6,000
B. 16,000
C. 60,000
D. 160,000
9. Who said, "Wine is light, held together
with water"?
A. Galileo
B. Albert Einstein
C. Captain Kirk
D. Victor Hugo
10 Who said, "God only made water, but man
made wine"?
A. Galileo
B. Albert Einstein
C. Captain Kirk
D. Victor Hugo
11. How many wineries are there in Alaska?
A. You gotta be joking. None.
B. Two
C. Four
D. 13
12. What is the highest amount paid at auction for
a corkscrew?
A. $290
B. $2,900
C. $29,000
D. $290,000
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ANSWERS
1. New World Chardonnay
2. Chardonnay is the most widely cultivated grape,
with nearly 45 acres. There are 35.5 acres of Seyval Blanc. Cabernet
Franc is the most popular red variety, with 17 acres under cultivation
in Connecticut.
3. In a recent study by Danish researchers, wine
drinkers had an average IQ of 108, compared with 97 for beer drinkers.
4. C. Corkscrews. Between 1795 and 1908, about 350
corkscrew patents were granted in England.
5. B. According to scientist Bill Lembeck, there
are 29 million bubbles in a bottle of Champers.
6. False. In fact, brandy and spirit of wine were
used to preserve the illustrious body. But the fable persisted,
and ever since that time rum has been called "Nelson's Blood."
7. C. Utah. Only beer can be sold in bars in this
state. Wine and liquor can be bought only at private clubs that
require membership. Any form of alcohol is prohibited at restaurant
bars unless food is ordered. There are state-run liquor stores.
8. B. Approximately 16,000 glasses; 15,940, to be
exact.
9. A. Galileo
10. D. Victor Hugo
11. C. Four. Most are on Kodiak Island where the
local salmonberries are made into award-winning wines. Wines are
also made from Chilkat cherry, dandelion, wild fireweed flower,
red currant, elderberry, rose hip, birch sap, blueberry and wild
rose. Salmonberries, by the by, are salmon-colored, shaped like
raspberries and contain tons of vitamin C.
12. C. $29,000 for an 18th-century pocket corkscrew.
Lunch with the
Baroness
January 5, 2003
Every year since 1945, the Château Mouton
Rothschild label has been illustrated with an original work of
art. Artists from Chagall and Picasso to Andy Warhol and Keith
Haring have designed the labels.
Payments for the design are cases of wine. This
is good news if you design the label in a good year. Film director
John Huston did well designing the label in 1982, a a banner year
for Bordeaux. Joan Miró, a better artist, did not fair
so well in 1969. It was an appalling year.
Perhaps the most famous recent label was the 1993
entry designed by the artist Balthus, depicting a delicate drawing
of a nude young girl. Every label for wine marketed in this country
has to be approved by the BATF. The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco
and Firearms is a law unto itself. There is no appeal. The label
design was banned in America - so a blank space was left on the
Mouton label. The bottles are now very collectible.
I was invited late last year to have lunch with
the owner of Mouton, Baroness Philippine de Roths-child for the
unveiling of the new label for the year 2000. I must explain that
it was along with 30 other journalists in the middle of the Rothschild
pavilion at the wine expo in Manhattan and was a bit like being
in a goldfish bowl.
Mouton had created a copy of a room inside the Mouton
chateau, complete with copies of paintings and a ceramic floor.
The mere mortals and wine minions gawked in through the mock windows
at the favored few enjoying old vintages of Mouton and listening
to the charming Baroness Philippine wax poetic about the new label.
There was a gasp as the new "label" was
revealed, as it wasn't a label at all - well, not in the accepted
sense - the actual bottle has become the work of art. And, quelle
horreur, it isn't a commissioned contemporary artist's work either.
For the centennial bottle and for a vintage that is being heralded
as the best in decades, a work was selected from the art collection
at the chateau. The ram is a part of the heraldry of Mouton's
crest. Modeled after the Augsburg Ram, a chased silver-gilt late-16th
century drinking vessel, a bas relief has been cleverly engraved
into the specially made bottle, and the incised surface is then
gold enameled.
The Wine File
I'm afraid the just-released 2000 Mouton will run
you about $350 - for a single bottle.
The Rothschilds are involved with many wine ventures
around the world. The mega wine corporation under the banner of
Philippine's late father, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, has wines
such as the perennial Mouton Cadet, a successful generic Bordeaux
wine that costs $12, through to Opus One, the famous vinous marriage
with Robert Mondavi in California. The Opus One will set you back
more than $150.
From the Maipo Valley in Chile, along with one of
my favorites, Escudo Rojo ($17), a new line of Reserva Chardonnay,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere wines (priced at $15) have been
released. And in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in southern France,
there are the Baron Philippe Pinot Noir, Viognier and Syrahs from
the Vin de Pays d'Oc, an emerging sub-region of the Languedoc.
This area is a treasure trove of well-made wines all priced under
$10.
A distinctive Rothschild wine from the Languedoc
is the 1999 Baron 'Arques - a huge wine that's tasting good now
but will age beautifully. It's a mélange of every great
French red grape except Pinot Noir - Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It makes for a complex,
dense, silky, black currant experience with hints of coffee and
sandalwood ($36).
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
Nutmeg to sprinkle
Additional ½ cup of whipped cream
Beat the eggs while adding the sugar and salt. Slowly
beat in the milk and half the cream. If using real eggs, stir
mixture while heating until it's thick enough to coat a metal
spoon with a thin film and when the mixture reaches 160°F.
Add the brandy and rum. Refrigerate for at least one day.
Before serving, stir it thoroughly until everything
is smoothly mixed, then whip in the remaining cream and confectioners'
sugar until thick. Top each glass of eggnog with a tablespoon
or two of whipped cream and a shake of nutmeg.
This yields eight servings.
Other elements can be added to taste. Some suggestions
are flavored brandies and liqueurs, fruit juice, ice cream and
chocolate curls. To make a nonalcoholic version, substitute 2
teaspoons of vanilla essence and a healthy sprinkle of cinnamon
for the spirits.
E-mail: wineatart@aol.com
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